Wednesday, 17 March 2010

Pierre Herme's Chocolate Macaron Experiment 巧克力马卡龙实验


I have made macarons according to various recipes, but this is the first time I (nearly) completely followed Pierre Herme's instruction, from raw material to the way of baking. I was surprised to find out the French meringue in this recipe doesn't contain sugar---when you beat the egg whites, you don't add sugar to help get stiff... Did I get it wrong? 

It took me some time to finally decide to do it this way despite that many other macaron recipes of his follow a "normal" and "standard" French or Italian meringue beating procedure with sugar. The outcome is like this! Not too bad!


I have made two different fillings: mascarpone mousse and fresh raspberries. The former seems to be better! :)

And I even made some heart shape tiny macarons, aren't they cute? Just as big as my nails!

So, surprisingly this recipe succeeded! But it's really hard to get the surface dry, next time I will still use the normal French meringue:p

Recipe: from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme
Ground Almond 140g
Confectioner's Sugar ( icing sugar) 250g
Cocoa powder 25g
Egg white 100g ( 3 L size egg whites plus a bit of the 4th egg white)


做过好几个比较经典的马卡龙配方,就是从来没能跟足大师Pierre Hermé的食谱及做法实践一次。其实心里已经形成了定势的时候,想要完全依照某人的做法来做一个甜点,并不是很容易的事情。你会在某个小细节情不自禁地按已经形成的习惯来做,或是因为已经按照完全不同的做法做成功过很多次而情不自禁地怀疑现在这种做法的可靠性,而无法控制地改动了一点点。更不用说当我看到PH的这个食谱,不由惊叹加十分的怀疑:实在是太不同了!

最大的不同在于他的法式蛋白霜,竟然是不加糖打的。其次的不同便是烘烤方式: 烤箱预热到220C,马卡龙一入炉立即降温到180C,用一木勺保持烤箱门开一条缝,烤10-12分钟,至表面硬。之后烤箱要回溫到220C,才能依样烤第二盘。烤好的马卡龙一出炉要立即从烤盘纸上除下(往纸与烤盘中间灌点儿热水,让马卡龙坐15秒,除下放网架冷却)。当然,如果用的是硅胶烤垫,热水应该是不用灌的了。


我对这个食谱及做法的初步印象是:这蛋白霜能稳定吗?然而对烘烤方式却觉得是意外的惊喜,因为不用再分两种炉温烤,也不用拿出拿进调换上下烤架那么麻烦。于是,实验开始了!我尽量地控制自己不去改变任何的做法(真的是好难!尤其是蛋白才打了十秒就已经挺立,而你无比的犹豫是否就真的这样把粉倒进去的时候!)做好的成品就是这样了:)另外还弄了几个心形的玩玩,只有指甲盖那么小:p

食谱:杏仁粉140g,糖粉250g,可可粉25g,蛋白100g(约3个大尺寸蛋白加第四个蛋白的一点)


过程一如所有马卡龙的简单而无法预料其结果:鸡蛋从冰箱里拿出,取蛋白,回复室温=>所有粉类混合筛两次=>蛋白先用中低速再用高速打到尖角=>分三到四次用刮刀拌入粉类=>Macaronnage15次=>挤圆形,晾干表面=>洒装饰用可可粉,烤。

做完的感觉就是,这样做出来的马卡龙表面很光滑而有光泽,但是太难干燥了!不知道PH是怎么干燥的,平时只要15分钟就能干,这次放了近两小时才稍微干了一点点。另外就是这样做出来的马卡龙是比较扁平的,因为流动性比较强,所以烤出来不是胖胖鼓鼓的可爱型马卡龙(值得一提的是日本巧克力大师土屋公二在他的著作中提到,好的马卡龙应该是扁平的,真是萝卜青菜各有所爱呀)。然而烘烤的方法是值得称道的,不仅有裙边,而且底面也干得很快,很好除下。我试了硅胶烤垫和烤盘纸,都没有一点粘连。对于没有硅胶垫的同学应该是一大福音吧!
装饰和保存方面,PH建议配巧克力甘那许或私家巧克力薰衣草冰淇淋夹心(改天要试做这个夹心!),冰箱冷藏过更为好味,可保存两周,或是室温密封保存三天。我试了一下,果然冰箱冷藏过的分外爽口,也基本上达到了外脆里“嚼”的标准:)这次我做好以后配了新鲜覆盆子,和马斯卡朋香草夹心,后者似乎更为美味!

实验的结论就是:以后再做马卡龙,我还是喜欢用加糖的法式蛋白霜,但烘烤方式会采用PH的。另外,我这次唯一的“情不自禁”的改动就是在烤盘下面加了厚纸板:p实在是怕出不了裙边呀。。。

Monday, 8 March 2010

生日蛋糕:榛果脆餅覆盆子馬斯卡朋慕斯 Raspberry and Mascarpone Mousse Cake


It is my birthday today! Thanks to all the family members, they made me feel warm and not lonely here. Of course, I have been planning making a very special birthday cake for over three weeks. After browsing hundreds of recipes ( a bit exaggerated...), I finally decided to combine the idea of Vi and Pierre Herme, to make this hemisphere raspberry mousse cake. Well, I admit that I was attracted by its bright color first of all! But you can also imagine how nice it would be when the slightly sour raspberries meet the sweet vanilla-scent mascarpone cheese, accompanied by crispy hazelnut dacquoise!

So here is the cake --- count from the top---fresh stawberries, raspberry mousse, vanilla mascarpone mousse, sweet basil and raspberry jelly, and hazelnut dacquoise. I used a 山 shape chocolate silicone mould to make the jelly in the middle in order to create a shape of lips, this 14cm mould to make the mascarpone mousse, and this 18cm mould for the whole cake. I only decorated it with sweet basil leaf, blackberry and baked isomalt sugar. I have to confess that the strawberries are completely accidental. All because the raspberry glaze which I originally planned to pour onto the cake melted the top mousse a bit, nearly created a disaster! I had to take off the glaze and decorated the cake with something to cover the defects :p  Please ignore the not-so-well-cut strawberries... I promise I will do better next time...

Here is the dacquoise recipe from Pierre Herme:
2/3 cup (70g) finely ground hazelnut powder or toasted and skinned hazelnuts
1 cup ( 100g) confectioners sugar
3 large egg whites, room temp
2 1/2 tbsp granulated sugar
1 cup ( 140g) hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and cut in half

About the other part of the cake recipes, please refer to Vi.


So what is the pink part on the petits fours? Of course the failed raspberry glaze! I poured some glaze over the leftover raspberry mousse and mascarpone mousse, then the new variation was born ;)

 
這個生日過得好不熱鬧。一大家子人幫我慶生,先是去到King‘s Cross的老成都狠狠吃了一頓川菜,又收到一大堆禮物,真是開心得不得了。明天有空,現一下禮物們才行:p
話說這個生日可是偶跨入三十大關,因此蛋糕也提前兩天就開始準備(事實上是半個月前就開始策劃),打算做一個難度超級高的、很有女性味道的、富於春天氣息的,那個,慕斯蛋糕。看來看去還是阿Vi的覆盆子蛋糕最合我意,於是大部份採用了阿Vi的idea。另外最近狂迷“糕點界的畢加索”Pierre Herme,所以餅底打算用他的一個Dacquoise配方,因為材料出乎意料的簡單,而實際上,就是這麼好做!

Dacquoise達克瓦滋,源自法國一個叫Dac的小鎮,既可以指由榛果或杏仁混合蛋白做成的甜餅,也可以指由這種脆餅與忌廉或慕斯層層交疊而成的甜點。PH的Dacquoise是單純的餅底配方,想不到做起來如此簡單又如此美味!我想主要是配方里含大量榛果的關係,咬下去酥香滿口,外脆里濕潤的質地加上原粒榛子的酥脆,還有標誌性的甜味,用來平衡酸酸的覆盆子是再好不過。剛做好,留完要用的部份以後,剩下的正好配覆盆子果泥做成一口小點,一下子就被搶光光。


這個蛋糕里有什麽呢?按照順序從上往下數的話,就是:

鮮草莓
覆盆子奶油慕斯
馬斯卡朋香草慕斯
甜羅勒與覆盆子果凍
榛果達克瓦滋(如右上圖)

阿Vi做的是單個的小蛋糕,而我是做一個大的蛋糕,因此修改了一下組合方式及順序。有的模具沒有也不必特意去買,用相似的就可以了。整體的蛋糕構想是:榛果甜餅切成圓形做底,甜羅勒與覆盆子果凍做“吻”狀深紅色餡心,馬斯卡朋慕斯做乳白色的第二層餡心,水紅色的覆盆子慕斯再包裹著馬斯卡朋,最後包裹深紅色覆盆子鏡面,以烤糖片和鮮果裝飾。製作過程當然是有一點麻煩滴,但是難度不會太高。整個都很順利---一天做榛果脆餅和羅勒覆盆子果凍,一天做馬斯卡朋慕斯和覆盆子慕斯---但是最後的最後竟然出了大狀況:先是忘了在最後的半圓模具里墊保鮮膜導致脫模脫了半天,然後好不容易脫模了淋鏡面的時候又太心急,溫度還沒低到合適的程度就澆了上去,結果表面的慕斯開始融化,把我嚇出一身冷汗。怎麼補救呢?只好拿掉不成功的鏡面,改用鮮草莓裝飾了。所以,對!大家看到的草莓,就是計畫外的產物!所幸那些不知道我原來打算怎麼做的,還是讓我給蒙混過關了。我個人覺得要保持這個蛋糕的口味豐富有層次但又不要太複雜,加鮮草莓其實不太合適,因為草莓和覆盆子雖然同為酸性水果,味道還是有小小差別。然而要是讓我用覆盆子一點點切半來裝飾,也未免太啰嗦。於是最後這個委曲求全的版本就只好華麗麗登場了。。。真的像一股春天的風,一下子吹散了冬日的陰霾呢。(雖然紅色是更夏天的顏色啦)

味道是難以想像的美味了。馬斯卡朋慕斯透著濃濃香草氣息,配合著榛果脆餅的甜,搭配覆盆子的微酸跳起一支三人舞;烤過的榛果果粒在口中平衡慕斯的綿密,最絕的是甜羅勒似有似無的獨特甜香時不時摻雜其中,微妙而難以忽略,是我覺得這個蛋糕中最有新意和最讓人驚豔的味道。


準備工作就是製作覆盆子果泥,這個過程是最讓人愉悅的了。覆盆子沁人心脾的清香隨著攪拌和過篩的動作不斷散發出來,映著鮮豔的顏色,讓人哈喇子直流。我真是忍不住一邊做一邊偷吃,幸好沒有被我吃光!而且再一想這個東西這麼健康,吃多也不怕,更是停不了口了。。。做法:200g冷凍覆盆子加2cup新鮮覆盆子倒進食物處理機中打成泥,過篩即可。只使用過篩后的部份,剩下的可以任意用來拌麵包或榛果甜餅。

榛果達克瓦滋:普通長方形烤盤一個(只要比最後的慕斯模具大就可以)

2/3 cup (70g) finely ground hazelnut powder or toasted and skinned hazelnuts榛果粉,或略烤過並且去皮的榛果粒
1 cup ( 100g) confectioners sugar 冰糖。普通細砂糖也可以
3 large egg whites, room temp 大尺寸蛋白,室溫
2 1/2 tbsp sugar 細砂糖 granulated sugar
1 cup ( 140g) hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and cut in half 去皮并于170C烤15分鐘的榛果粒,切半

烤爐預熱至165C。烤盤墊上一張約10-in(26cm)的烤盤紙。
將1的榛子和2的糖放入食物處理機,拌成麵粉狀。用木勺壓過篩。(如果用的是榛子粉,與糖一起過篩即可。)
打蛋白至不透明,分幾次加入4的糖打到尖角,僅有微微的彎鉤,但蛋白仍有光澤。用刮刀拌入榛子糖混合物。
烤盤紙四角用麵糊固定,從中間抹入麵糊。約1.5cm厚。邊緣不齊不要緊。表面撒上5的榛果粒,輕壓進麵糊里。
烤25-30分鐘,至表面金黃脆硬。放網架放涼至室溫。

關於烤的時間,如果想成品脆一些,就烤久一點;如果想要象馬卡龍那樣外脆內軟,就只烤25分鐘。除非是單吃,我覺得問題都不大,因為最後總要沾到慕斯的濕氣而整體變軟的。

覆盆子甜羅勒果凍:直徑2cm的巧克力硅膠十五連模,約能做10個小果凍
80g Raspberry Puree 覆盆子果泥
2片 Sweet Basil leaves 甜羅勒葉
18g Icing sugar 糖粉
3g Gelatine leaf 明膠片
1茶匙 lemon juice 檸檬汁
1茶匙 rum 朗姆酒(阿Vi用的是覆盆子利口酒Crême de Framboise,我沒有,就用朗姆酒代替)

明膠片用冰水泡軟之後擠掉水分﹐備用。
將覆盆子果泥﹑甜羅勒葉倒進食物調理機, 攪打成泥状,過篩,加糖粉和檸檬汁﹐用橡皮刀攪拌混合。
用耐熱容器盛著泡軟的明膠片和兩湯匙的果泥漿﹐再放微波爐中火加熱融化(約20秒) 。取出﹐攪拌至整體融合後﹐將其倒進果泥漿中混合均勻。拌入酒﹐攪拌融合﹐用湯匙將覆盆子甜羅勒泥舀進矽膠模型裡﹐放進冰箱冷藏凝固﹐至少3小時或一個晚上。


馬斯卡朋慕斯餡心:直徑14cm的中空圓形硅膠模

240ml whipping cream 鮮奶油
185g Mascarpone cheese 馬斯卡朋乳酪
120g granulated sugar 細砂糖
3個 L size Egg yolk 大的蛋黃
½條 vanilla bean 香草豆莢, 開半刮出籽
8g gelatine leaf 明膠片


明膠片用冰水泡軟之後擠掉水分﹐備用。將蛋黃﹑砂糖和香草籽放進一個耐熱大碗中﹐略攪拌至混合,電動打蛋器隔水加熱以中速打發至顏色變淡、拉起蛋黃緩慢緞帶狀下落為止。拌入微波爐加熱融化的明膠片﹐拌勻﹐然後加入馬斯卡朋乳酪﹐迅速打發30秒至均勻混合﹐備用。(如果這一步吉利丁凝結太快,可回微波爐中火轉5秒再打)

打發鮮奶油。如果是夏天,將鮮奶油隔著冰水打發至出現尖角和清晰紋路,但也不能打成裝飾用鮮奶油的硬度,用橡皮刮刀將3分之1份量的發泡鮮奶油切拌入馬斯卡朋乳漿裡﹐攪拌乳化後﹐拌入剩餘的鮮奶油﹐確實攪拌乳化。將馬斯卡朋慕斯倒進擠袋裡﹐備用。將覆盆子甜羅勒果凍從冰箱取出﹑脫模後備用。

將馬斯卡朋慕斯擠進模具中至半滿﹐等距離放進一圈約9個覆盆子甜羅勒果凍﹐上面再度擠入馬斯卡朋慕斯至滿﹐用抹刀將多餘的慕斯刮除﹐表面修平﹐放進冰箱冷藏凝固﹐至少3小時或一個晚上。這個分量的馬斯卡朋可以填滿一個半的14cm模,所以剩下的可配合之前的覆盆子果泥和榛果甜餅做一口小點用。


覆盆子慕斯:直徑18cm的半圓形硅膠模

170g Raspberry puree 覆盆子果泥
250ml whipping cream 鮮奶油
70g granulated sugar 細砂糖
10g leaf gelatine 明膠片
1茶匙 lemon juice 檸檬汁
2茶匙 rum 朗姆酒(阿Vi用的是覆盆子利口酒Crême de Framboise)

明膠片用冰水泡軟之後擠掉水分﹐備用。
把3份1的覆盆子果泥和砂糖混合放進小鍋裡﹐用小火煮至砂糖完全融化後﹐離火。加入泡軟的明膠片,拌勻後再拌入剩下的覆盆子果泥﹐確實拌勻。加入檸檬汁和朗姆酒﹐拌勻後放涼。
打發鮮奶油。將鮮奶油打發至出現尖角和清晰紋路,但也不能打成裝飾用鮮奶油的硬度,用橡皮刮刀將3分之1份量的發泡鮮奶油拌入覆盆子泥漿裡﹐攪拌乳化後﹐拌入剩餘的鮮奶油﹐再度確實攪拌乳化。將覆盆子慕斯倒進擠袋裡﹐備用。
將馬斯卡朋慕斯餡心從冰箱取出﹑脫模後備用。半圓模具中鋪一層保鮮膜,周圍留出約5cm的富餘,將覆盆子慕斯擠進模型中至模具剩3份1空間﹐將已定形的馬斯卡朋慕斯餡心放進模具中﹐上面再度擠入覆盆子慕斯至填滿﹐用抹刀將多餘的慕斯刮除﹐將表面均勻漂亮地抹平﹐放進冰箱冷藏凝固﹐至少3小時或一個晚上。

脫模:如果要淋鏡面,兩手提著保鮮膜將慕斯脫模到網架上,或作其他裝飾的話直接脫到漂亮的碟子里。作適當裝飾即可。我的裝飾除了那不得已而為之的草莓以外,就是兩片甜羅勒葉,一顆黑莓和幾片烤糖片^^

烤糖片的做法:將isomalt sugar撒在半邊硅膠烤墊上,用另半邊壓在上面,入烤箱180C烤5分鐘,拿出來用擀麵杖隔著烤墊稍微擀平,再入烤箱烤5分鐘,取出冷卻后掰成合適的大小即可。

那麼,這就是我的隆重的告別20s生日蛋糕了。內層的馬斯卡朋由于是用波浪形圓模做的,所以形狀就是這樣不規則的了。至於中間的甜羅勒覆盆子果凍,是不是基本還是有點像一個吻呢?:)


剩下的鏡面隨便地澆在剩餘的覆盆子慕斯和馬斯卡朋慕斯上,又做成了另外的一口小點。與上面的榛果達克瓦滋夾覆盆子小點合起來可以叫les petite troi了:)中間的深紅色小月牙就是羅勒覆盆子果凍哦。想做出這樣的效果,只要在凝固的馬斯卡朋慕斯表面滴上圓形的果凍,再覆蓋以覆盆子慕斯即可。

Sunday, 28 February 2010

My supper for the end of the CNY 蝦米炒雜蔬--我的元宵節晚餐

Today is the 15th day of the Chinese New Year. Traditionally people will eat round rice balls, Tang Yuan in Chinese, as the warm and shining dessert in the early spring. The round shape of the rice balls means that the family can be together like a circle gathers every member together. Strangely I am alone tonight, so I just cooked this simple fried vegetable dish for myself. Maybe I will make rice balls tomorrow with sticky rice flour, but I definately miss the taste of the rice balls in my hometown, which is irreplaceable.

Ingredients:
dried tiny shimps 1tbsp
yellow sweet pepper X 1
small tomatoes X 15
sweet peas X 5 tbsp (frozen ones, add a bit butter to microwave 1.5 min)
ginger ( well chopped or sliced) and spring onions ( cut into 3cm pieces)
oyster sauce
sunflower oil or olive oil
some boiled noodles

Boil the oil in a frying pan to medium heat, add sliced ginger and one piece of spring onions until you smell the nice aroma. Add chopped sweet pepper, pea, tiny shimps, and tomatoes, fry for about 2 minutes. Add a bit oyster sauce and stir fry until well mixed. Cover the lid of the pan for about 1 min. Mix with the noodles and serve.

=> Tomatoes must be added at the last and don't fry for too long.
=> Tomatoes can be replaced by red peppers, peas can be replaced by green peppers. Many veges can be used as long as they are not too wet.
=> Oyster sauce is the key.
=> The Chinese aroma mushroom can be added for extra rich scent.

By the way, the CNY is also called the Spring Festival, so here is my photo of early spring of London...


今天是元宵,一個人過覺得有點淒涼,本來想要做湯圓的也懶了,於是炒了一鍋顏色很漂亮的素食,原料和做法都超級簡單。雖然是自己發明的,但味道是好得不得了哈。聖女番茄有點搶味,如果用紅椒會更好。但是我今晚特別想吃番茄,所以就照放了^^

鍋燒熱橄欖油至6成,放入蔥和姜煸炒至香,依序放入黃色甜椒、微波爐加少許黃油轉過1分鐘的冰凍甜豌豆、干蝦米、切半的聖女番茄,炒香后加少許蠔油翻炒至勻。另鍋燒開水下面,面熟后瀝幹水,裝盤。

蝦米的味道實在是一絕。蠔油也令這簡單的炒菜滋味無窮。我平時做這道菜都是放香菇的,今晚懶得泡了,這樣也很好吃。當然有了香菇就更香了。。。

看看明天會不會有心情做湯圓?希望家人和愛人都平安幸福。

另外,爲了紀念這春節的最後一天,特別貼上前不久拍的倫敦早春。葉子綠了,花兒開始開了,春天就是好呀。

Thursday, 18 February 2010

Old Spring 旧时春天

Just a moment of spring memories.

Monday, 15 February 2010

Valentine's Chocolate-Caramel Truffles - Recipe of Pierre Herme



What have you done on Valentine's Day? I made the chocolate truffles for my lover ^^ The recipe is adapted from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme. The original one is for about 55 truffles, I used half of the amount and made about 28 truffles.


Chocolate-Caramel truffles: original recipe for 55 truffles


1 cup (250 g) heavy cream
10 oz. (285 g) bittersweet chocolate (around 70%), finely chopped
6 oz. (170 g) milk chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup (200 g) sugar
2 1/2 tbsp (1 1/4 oz.; 40 g) butter at room temperature, cubed
pinch of sea salt
dutch-processed cocoa powder (P.H uses Valrhona)

Instructions:
- Boil the cream in a saucepan and keep it hot.
- Mix the chocolate together in a heatproof big bowl; set aside.
- Melt 3 tbsp sugar in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. When the sugar starts to take on color, stir it with a wooden spoon and add another 3 tbsp of the sugar. Stirring constantly, caramelise this new batch of sugar, then add another 3 tbsp. Continue until all of the sugar has been added and it turns a rich amber color. Lower the heat and stir in the butter and salt. Add the hot cream in a slow, steady stream. Keep stirring until the caramel settles down and is smooth, remove the pan from the heat.
- Pour about one-third of the caramel into the center of the chocolate and, working with the wooden spoon, gently stir the creamy caramel into the chocolate in ever-widening concentric circles. When the ganache is smooth, add half of the remaining caramel, blending it into the chocolate in circlesm then finish with the rest of the caramel in the same manner. When the ganache is cool, cover it with plasic wrap and chill for at least 4 hours.
- Shaping: Dust your palms with cocoa powder. Prepare enough cocoa powder in a bowl ( or something else you like, such as coconuts, roasted nuts... ), scoop a dollop of ganache and toss it in the cocoa powder until it is well coated, shake off the extra cocoa, set it aside on a baking tray lined with parchment paper.
The truffles are better stored in air-tight tins and served in room temperature. After you have fulfilled your Valentine's task, consume them as quickly as possible or give them to your friends as gifts--- if there are still any left! :)
 
今年的情人节你做巧克力了吗?我一早就计划了要做松露巧克力。这是我最爱的巧克力品种,一是因为吃到嘴里入口即化的感觉,二是truffles形态的巧克力吃起来分外香浓。有“法国甜点王”之称的Pierre Herme著有食谱一本叫《巧克力甜点》,里边的这个焦糖味的松露巧克力食谱非常经典和有代表性。PH之所以能有如此大的名气,其实完全在于他做甜点的态度:对每一个细节都精益求精。这个焦糖版本的truffles,从原料的选择到液体倾倒的角度到搅拌的圆圈的大小都很讲究,怪不得没有耐心的人成不了大师呀。
 
这里采用的是原书版本,数量55个,有点多。除非有很多朋友可以送,不然我建议全部减半,大概能做28个左右,既能满足情人节需要,自己吃也够,再送一些给亲密的朋友。因为新鲜做的巧克力还是尽快吃完比较好,所以不建议做太多。

焦糖松露巧克力:55个
1 cup (250 g) heavy cream 鲜奶油 (含脂多的较好)
10 oz. (285 g) bittersweet chocolate (around 70%) 细细切碎的苦甜巧克力(约含70%可可)
6 oz. (170 g) milk chocolate 细细切碎的牛奶巧克力
1 cup (200 g) sugar 糖
2 1/2 T (1 1/4 oz.; 40 g) butter at room temperature, cubed 室温放软的黄油
pinch of sea salt 少许海盐 (或者黄油用含盐的,此处可以不加盐)
dutch-processed cocoa powder (P.H uses Valrhona) 无糖可可粉


关于这些原料,巧克力的味道会直接影响到成品,所以越好的巧克力当然效果越好。无论是黑巧、牛奶巧克力还是可可粉,PH都用的是Valrhona牌子的。搞不好就是因为他,这个牌子的巧克力才被炒到这么贵。当然这确实是超好的巧克力,200克左右要6镑。。。而连盐这样普通的东西,PH也要用Fleur de sel 盐之花,是最好的海盐,自然和普通盐也不可同日而语。
 
做法:
- 小锅中中火煮沸鲜奶油,保持温度备用
- 用一可以容纳所有原料的大碗,装入切碎的巧克力备用。巧克力切得越碎越好。碗中不能含水含油。
- 制作焦糖:从备好的糖中取3汤匙,入厚底锅中火加热。糖刚要开始变色的时候,用木勺搅拌并加入另3汤匙糖。就这样不停搅拌=>加糖=>搅拌=>加糖,直到所有糖加完,焦糖变成深琥珀色。转小火,持续一边搅拌一边加入黄油和盐。完全混合后,缓慢而持续地一边搅拌一边注入热的鲜奶油,继续搅拌至混合物光滑无凝块。
- 熄火。将三分之一焦糖慢慢注入巧克力的中心,从中间轻柔地划圈搅拌,圆圈越划越大直至巧克力和焦糖完全融合。再倒入剩下的焦糖的二分之一,同样方法搅拌。照此一直到所有焦糖都加入,巧克力甘那许光滑柔顺。不可用力搅拌,以免出泡。
- 甘那许做好后放凉,蒙上保鲜膜,入冰箱冷藏至少4小时。
- 塑形:准备一个铺了烤盘纸或者烘焙硅胶垫的烤盘,另准备一个碗,碗中盛入适量可可粉准备包裹甘那许。手掌上先拍上少许可可粉,用挖球勺挖取适量甘那许,于手掌中稍微揉圆。我个人偏好truffles就是不怎么齐整的那种质朴可爱的样子,所以不需要揉得太圆。揉好的巧克力球丢入可可粉碗中均匀裹上一层可可粉,再轻轻在两个手掌中互相抛一下,抖掉多余的可可粉,正宗法式松露巧克力球就做好啦。
 
注意不要揉得太久,以免甘那许化掉了。做好的松露巧克力最好趁新鲜吃掉,也可以冰箱保存,但吃之前要提前拿出来回到室温。巧克力在室温下才是最佳食用状态哦。
 
外层如果不裹可可粉,还有很多种东西可选:椰子碎、榛果碎、硬壳巧克力、心形小糖片。。。就看你喜欢如何装饰你的truffles了。而我,就喜欢它最原始的味道哦:)

Wednesday, 10 February 2010

Cocoa Cheese Cake with dark chocolate glazing 可可芝士蛋糕与可可镜面淋酱


I was captured by its splendid appearance at the first time I saw this cake from Vi. My imitation finally went out with a nice flavour and fine look, but my cutting and photography skills really need a lot of improvement :(. Even if I have soaked the knife in hot water before cutting, when pulling the knife out there will still be some filling attached! >-< Who can teach me...............

According to Vi, the original recipe is from the Japanese chef Kaori Ishibashi's book 4つの季節のシンプルチーズケーキ ( Four Seasons' Cheesecake ). But the original one used sour cream. I also didn't have sour cream in the kitchen, so like Vi I made it with cocoa (chocolate glazing).

Cheese cake:
cheam cheese 300g
whipping cream 200ml
caster sugar 120g ( I only used 100g )
2 whole eggs
cocoa powder 4 tbs
freshly squeezed lemon juice 4 tsp

Crust:
Oreo cookies ( without filling ) 180g
unsalted butter 100g

Glazing:
whipping cream 100g
water 125g
cocoa powder 40g
granulated sugar 160g
leaf gelatine 10g ( I feel that there can be less. The final glazing is a bit too jelly-like...)


Baked for 90 minutes at 160C/325F. Refridgeated for 30 minutes. I think the key success factor for this cake is the right moment to pour the glazing. Too early, the glazing will flow and cover the side of the cake; too late, the glazing won't flow...



Tiramisu -- the chiffon cake version 提拉米苏之戚风蛋糕版本


In May 2008 I made my first Tiramisu. I always believe this is a dessert that needs passion and love, and love is something so strange to have many layers --- layers that are so sweet to make you want to devote everything, while other layers so sour and bitter to only make you drop tears. Love is full of happy smiles and unhappy tears. The only thing I am sure to tell you, girls, is that if a love makes more tears come out from you than sweet smiles, you'd better look for someone else.

There is a softer and more creamy version served in cup in Italy, because less gelatine is used. Since what I wanted to make is a solid cake at that time, I chose the other version with more gelatine and chiffon cake as the base instead of the finger biscuits.

Chiffon Cake: an 8in round mould
4 L size eggs
Caster sugar A 40g
Vegetable oil 60g
Squeezed orange juice 60g
Vanilla extract 2 drops
Self-raising flour 120g
Baking powder 1/4 tsp
Caster sugar B 60g
Salt 1g
Cream of tartar 1/4tsp

Cheese Mousse:
Sugar (melted in water, sugar:water=1:1) 50g
Egg yolks X 3
Caster sugar 50g
Leaf Gelatine 2-3 pieces
Mascarpone cheese 250g
Whipping cream 250g
Finger biscuirt or the chiffon cake ( above ) 2 pieces
Coffee flavour liqueur 5g
Marsala wine 5g ( or blandy 5g)
Espresso 30g
Another coffee liqueur 20g for brushing the cake

Instructions-Chiffon cake:
- Add sugar A into egg yolks and slightly beat until mixed. Add vanilla extract.
- Add orange juice and oil, stir well. Add sifted flour and baking powder and slightly stir until the mixture is smooth but not stiff. Cover the mixture with a cheesecloth to keep it from drying.
- Mix together the egg whites, cream of tartar and salt, beat it with a high speed until big bubbles show ( about 1min), and add sugar a little at a time (in three turns) and beat until very stiff with a middle speed. 
- Gently fold 1/3 of the egg white into the egg yolk mixture, and fold back with the 2/3 egg white mixture until well mixed and smooth. But don't over blend.
- Pour the mixture in the cake mould, bake in the lowest level of the oven at 180C for 40 minutes. 
- Take the cake out from the oven, unmould it and cool it on a wire rack with upside down.

Instructions-cheese mousse:
- Beat the whipping cream until flothy but can still flow. Put in into the fridge.
- Soak the leaf gelatine in cold water for 5 mins, squeeze extra water and set aside.
- Beat the egg yolks and sugar above hot water until thick and pale.
- Hear half of the sugar liquid (25g) to 120C, pour into the egg yolk mixture.
- Hear the leaf gelatine above hot water until it melt. Add the gelatine into the egg yolk mixture.
- Add Mascarpone cheese.
- After it is cool, mix in Marsala wine and whipped cream.

To construct the cake, brush the sliced chiffon cake with coffee liqueur and sugar liquid. Put one piece of chiffon cake at the bottom, pour on one layer of cheese mousse, and another piece of chiffon cake, and the other layer of cheese mousse, level the surface and refridgeate the cake for 12 hours. Spinkle the cocoa powder on the surface before serving.

I can promise you that the taste of this cake is one of the most unforgetable tastes of love.
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